WARNING: This page discusses suicide, violence, and other negative/illegal behaviors. Although not graphic, this may be triggering for some readers. Please read and participate with caution.
Jirai Kei is a younger fashion subculture that originated in Japan's Kabukicho district and first spread in popularity in the early 2020s.[1] Its initial style consisted out of Dark Girly fashion but with an own spin to it that made the wearer appear distinctly Jirai even from just a glance.[2] However, with the increasing mainstream awareness the subculture has undergone multiple changes in regards to its style and a wider variety of fashions are now worn.[3]
The questionable name and negative associated activities have made its existence controversial, especially in Japan.
The Name[]
Jirai (地雷) is a common Japanese slang term used to describe something as "dangerous" or "triggering" as it is akin to stepping on a landmine.[2] Before the association with trends, Jirai Kei (地雷系) was mainly used in a derogatory manner to label a woman as mentally unstable to the degree of violent emotional breakdowns, often towards their partners. As "landmine" is almost always used in negative context towards a person and to harass or demean, there has been controversy surrounding the name.[4][5] While the term has seen some use in Japanese media as a sales point, it is still seen as derogatory to the degree that the staff of various companies refuse to work on anything related to the term or trend.[6]
Women within the subculture are called "Jirai Joshi" (地雷女子), or landmine girls, while men in the subculture are referred to as "Jirai Danshi" (地雷男子), or landmine boys.
Origins and Controversy[]
Due to a makeup challenge by Japanese YouTuber SuReRo[7] that went viral during the March 2020 corona restrictions in Japan, which was about emulating the "landmine woman" stereotype, the term has been associated with various darker styles, gradually morphing into its own subculture.[8]
Jirai Kei has strong associations with some darker or disturbing themes, though not in the style on its own like Yami Kawaii. In this case, Jirai Kei may be associated with self-harm, drug abuse, alcoholism, street partying, illegal sex work, and other rebellious and shocking behaviors. The associations of this kind of behavior with Jirai Kei is said to have its roots among the Toyoko Kids - a criminal gang mainly consisting out of teenage runaways that is active in Kabukicho, furthering its negative connotations.[9] Many criticize that Jirai Kei has contributed to harmful real life consequences, such as teens and young adults being groomed into self-destructive behavior in order to get accepted within the subculture.[10][11][12]
There's also arguments to be made for the supposed appropriation of the "landmine" stereotype by both Japanese and overseas followers of Jirai Kei as solely a fashion trend. Elements commonly associated with the stereotype are often emulated and romanticized as a quirky gimmick solely for aesthetic reasons.[11][13] Meanwhile, those who engage in substance usage, self-harm, and sex work face criticism and demonization from others into Jirai Kei, especially overseas netizens, who wish to renounce them after accusations of Jirai Kei promoting problematic behavior by outsiders.[14] In response, some contend that Jirai Kei followers who engage in problematic behavior, labeled as "lifestyle landmines", are the true originators of the subculture and therefore should not be disowned from the community solely for the sake of maintaining the reputation of those who insist on only participating in the associated aesthetics of the subculture, labeled as "fashion landmines".
Due to the controversies related to the Jirai Kei subculture, people both within Japan as well overseas have stated that it should be no longer promoted in reference to styles and trends as its the fashion part is already mostly encompassed in Dark Girly and Yami Kawaii.[13][15]
Style Basics[]
Jirai Kei as a style has a strong focus on the overall styling rather than the clothes on their own, and therefore the fashions worn can vary to a high degree depending on the current common trends within the subculture.
Clothes[]
Since the initial boom in 2020, Jirai Kei has expanded into multiple directions and now covers a wide range of styles. The classic Jirai Kei outfit features Girly fashion and emphasizes a feminine yet mysterious aura with a focus on the color combination of black with muted pink, but occasionally also red or white.[2][16] High collared blouses are being worn with a frilly high waist skirt and the clothes are often accented with lace and frills.[1] An alternative winter version of the style swaps the frilly blouse with a lacey sweater. Gemstone jewelry often includes rhinestones and pearls. Some of the most popular platform shoe choices are platform loafers and, more commonly, Mary Jane platform clogs (both are usually chosen from around 3 inches to 5 inches of back heel length). Lace trim socks or dark tights are be worn under the shoes.
As the initial look associated with Jirai Kei became mainstream, it started to move on to edgier alternative fashion looks.[3] The outfits of this type are generally unisex and often incorporate oversized Yami Kawaii tops with their typical prints, the most popular being depictions of sick or injured stuffed animals, that are worn like a dress and reach a little below the thigh area. There's also many Goth Punk elements with ripped sweaters, bondage elements, fishnet tights, and massive platform shoes.[17] Tracksuits are also occasionally worn in combination with leg warmers or loose socks. Black is still in the central focus for the clothes but with vibrant colors such as red, blue, or purple, as accents.
Hair and Makeup[]
Jirai Kei makeup often resembles a highly exaggerated version of byojaku makeup with the typical pink or red under eye blush, emphasized tear bags, down-turned black eyeliner, and overall pale makeup foundation. Black circle lens contacts are commonly worn to make the eyes appear bigger, lipstick colors can vary based on how the wearer decides.[1]
For hairstyles, hime cut bangs, twin-tails with the ends curled (also referred to as pigtails), and black hair with highlights are most common, though many Japanese Jirai girls also dye strands of their hair to a darker pink color, or use colored extensions. Cute nail art (black and white being the most common colors) with gems and 3D art are also usually seen, especially incorporating Sanrio themes.
Accessories[]
Common accessories in Jirai Kei include long black satin hair bows, Miu Miu bracelets, variants of the saturn logo necklace from Vivienne Westwood, a Jill Stuart handbag or MCM logo backpack in pale pink, as well as various types of Sanrio character accessories, most often featuring the characters My Melody or Kuromi.[1] Miss Dior perfume bottles are also vastly popular and a common perfume choice. Older adult women invested in the fashion sense can also seen drinking various types of alcohol, like "Strong Zero" with a straw, presumably to not disturb their makeup.[13]
Attitude[]
On top of the style standing out, Jirai Kei also has a unique attitude of wanting to be in charge, or pushing to be seen and recognized. This slightly rebellious attitude is often seen in those who wear the style; underage high school girls can be seen smoking, drinking, and wandering city streets at night as part of this behavior. It also has ties to even darker themes, such as public promotion of self harm and underage prostitution (see the above Controversy section).
Popularity[]
Despite Jirai Kei being a younger and controversial subculture, it has seen some rise in popularity. Particularly, it has been covered by online magazines who reported about celebrities taking part in the initial makeup challenge, as well as featured by Japanese influencers and beauty gurus who created makeup tutorials for archiving the various looks.[8] During the height of its popularity, Jirai Kei's initial style has also been worn by the popular Japanese model Tsubasa Masuwaka, and she described it as "cute with a gothic edge".[18]
Although it hasn't gained much media traction overseas, Jirai Kei has been mentioned a bit in various English media.[8] There also has been a slight increase of general awareness about the subculture due to the drama adaption of the manga "Tomorrow, I Will Be Someone's Girlfriend" with the character "Yua" representing both the stereotype as well as the style. Music featuring Jirai Kei characters has also become popular in the mainstream, with songs such as DECO*27's "The Vampire" featuring Hatsune Miku dressing and acting as a landmine girl reaching nearly 70M views as of late 2023.[19]
Brands & Shops[]
- Ank Rouge
- Amilige
- Bubbles
- Darrdy
- DearMyLove
- Lafary
- MA*RS
- Noemie
- Reflem
- Rojita
- Subcul Zirai
- Travas Tokyo
- Viviene Westwood
- Yosuke USA
Gallery[]
References[]
- ↑ 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 "Appearing all over Kabukicho! What is Jirai Kei? (translated title)" Lafary. November 9, 2020. Retrieved December 21, 2020 from https://www.lafary.net/culture/58348/
- ↑ 2.0 2.1 2.2 "What does the word "jirai" mean? Thorough explanation of the difference from Jirai Kei ♡ (translated title)" Lafary. June 13, 2023. Retrieved August 10, 2023 from https://www.lafary.net/culture/58242/
- ↑ 3.0 3.1 "[Latest version] Jirai brands [21 selected]! Latest and classic Jirai outfits - coordination summary ♡" Lafary. June 14, 2023. Retrieved September 7, 2023 from https://www.lafary.net/fashion/62677/
- ↑ Examples of tweets criticizing and mocking the trend 1, 2, 3
- ↑ Interview with the Toyoko Kids, who are also opposed to being called "landmine". NHK. June 10, 2022. Retrieved August 13, 2023 from https://www3.nhk.or.jp/news/special/jiken_kisha/kishanote/kishanote56-2/
- ↑ Interview with Larme magazine's founder Haruna Nakagori. YouTube. August 27, 2023. Retrieved September 10, 2023 from https://youtu.be/DeHeg0chRfk?feature=shared&t=1637
- ↑ The video that initiated the viral landmine makeup challenge. YouTube. February 03, 2020. Retrieved December 31, 2020 from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBbwjWHa4YY
- ↑ 8.0 8.1 8.2 "‘Land mine makeup’ creating buzz in Japan" The Japan News. May 14, 2021. Retrieved October 15, 2023 from https://japannews.yomiuri.co.jp/culture/fashion/20210514-60936/
- ↑ TW: Self Harm, etc. Five page spread on Toyoko Kids and their connection to the Jirai term. Bunshin Online. July 24, 2021. Retrieved June 27, 2022 from https://bunshun.jp/articles/-/46977
- ↑ TW: Drug abuse, etc. The testimonial from a mother whoese teenage daughter was groomed into self-destructive behaviour after getting into jirai kei. Bunshin Online. November 26, 2022. Retrieved April 30, 2023 from https://bunshun.jp/articles/-/59016
- ↑ 11.0 11.1 TW: Discussion of self-harm and prostitution related to minors "Even self-harm is a trend now?" (translated title)" Daily SPA!. August 04, 2021. Retrieved April 30, 2023 from https://nikkan-spa.jp/1771398
- ↑ TW: Prostitution related to minors. An article on South Korea's problem with the Jirai Kei boom and grooming. http://news.sbs.co.kr/news/endPage.do?news_id=N1007387776
- ↑ 13.0 13.1 13.2 "KAWAII TROUBLEMAKER makeup [JAP SUB]." RenaMay Kawaii Japan. June 12, 2020. Retrieved January 1, 2021 from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=16MnDKnJ3sM
- ↑ cyber.girl. “The Dark Side of Jirai Kei 地雷系 (Landmine) Fashion & Culture.” YouTube, 1 Oct. 2022, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1SR1fgtBIOE
- ↑ “Jirai Kei” and the History of Girly Kei Fashion Stereotypes." Author Unknown. June 09, 2022. Retrieved June 27, 2022 from https://docs.google.com/document/d/1NvA8mjL9ZxiC1BucflB2MFnCl8dwGlFWXFN0JmAgngw/edit
- ↑ "Jirai vs Girly!? (translated title)" DearMyLove. September 29, 2022. Retrieved April 30, 2023 from https://dreamvs.jp/blogs/yumemagazine/20220929
- ↑ "A must-see for emo and landmine girls! Reflem's latest outfits ♪ (translated title)" Harajuku Pop. January 16, 2023. Retrieved April 30, 2023 from https://harajuku-pop.com/69987/
- ↑ "Model Tsubasa Masuwaka Charms Fans with Her "Jirai-Onna" Makeup and Tutorial." Grape. June 10, 2020. Retrieved December 21, 2020 from https://grapee.jp/en/141895
- ↑ Citation needed. The outfit Miku wears in the official video does resemble Jirai Kei, but I was unable to find any sources in Japanese saying these two are related. This may be more association than actual inspiration.